Help! When I turn on my lights my battery goes dead.

TOPIC:

Help! When I turn on my lights my battery goes dead.

Created by: number356

Orig. Posting Date	User Name	Edit Date	Msg No.
Jul-03-2008 02:39AM	Se7en		849386
Jul-03-2008 12:33AM	number356		849380
Jul-02-2008 06:39PM	helpmymini		849364
Jul-02-2008 10:31AM	Se7en		849269
Jul-02-2008 10:00AM	dklawson		849264
Jul-02-2008 09:49AM	number356		849262
Jul-02-2008 08:32AM	kerr		849253
Jul-02-2008 08:22AM	helpmymini		849247
Jul-02-2008 08:05AM	number356		849237
Jul-02-2008 07:21AM	Cup Cake		849223
Jul-02-2008 04:50AM	Se7en		849197
Jul-02-2008 04:25AM	dklawson		849193
Jul-02-2008 02:13AM	helpmymini		849175
Jul-01-2008 09:34PM	number356		849155
Jul-01-2008 08:54PM	Mabeita		849139
Jul-01-2008 08:50PM	number356		849135

Found 16 Messages

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Posted: Jul-03-2008 02:39AM

Se7en
Total Posts: 7159
Last Post: 11-20-08
Member Since: 01-16-00

I know what you mean about forgetting stuff you though you'd never forget. Give yourself 20 more years and see how much you remember! Anyway, John Twist at University Motors has done a bunch of videos about LBC stuff and they're on youtube. Here's the polarizing one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH_yIeKsBSM

SE7EN

Posted: Jul-03-2008 12:33AM

number356
Total Posts: 179
Last Post: 09-23-08
Member Since: 01-21-03

Well the bulb was out. But now the bulb won't go out when I bring the revs up. On the cut-out coil, I have to move the moving contact to the fixed contact thing to make and the light goes out. It's like the coil for the cut-out isn't being charged? Ok so how do you re-polorize the dynamo? It sucks because I used to know all this like the back of my hand.

Posted: Jul-02-2008 06:39PM

helpmymini
Total Posts: 2712
Last Post: 11-18-08
Member Since: 04-26-05

I will be testing my ground for my voltage regulator. If that doesn't solve my problem, I will be buying a new replacement regulator from University Motors here in town. They are $60. The come and go in availability both here on MM, and at Johns place. If you would like me to look into one for you, I would be happy to. Check to be sure your gen has held it's polarization, and that the gen spins when power is run to the small and large spade simultaneously. (with the belt slackenend).

I am very happy to hear another hard core purist holding onto the original parts. They worked once, they should still work!!!

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S

Posted: Jul-02-2008 10:31AM

Se7en
Total Posts: 7159
Last Post: 11-20-08
Member Since: 01-16-00

Technically true, Doug. I should have qualified the note to say that it needs to be "in the system to indicate whether or not the system is charging".... not to complete the system as may have been inferred. Here's what I read from another site:

...they didn't know how the charge light operated (MG called it "Ignition light" all the way up into the MGB) Back then MG used the regulator to make the ground through the generator for the powered bulb which was grounded when the generator was not charging and this method was carried on into later MGs on to the MGBs with alternators. They did it inside the Alternator on the "B" and "C". Now on an alternator system the "Ign" light is used to excite the charging system to start operating when it is turning and if the light burns out the charging system fails to start.

SE7EN

Posted: Jul-02-2008 10:00AM

dklawson
Total Posts: 6021
Last Post: 11-19-08
Member Since: 06-05-00

356, I understand your desire for originality. My suggestion was not to go away from the generator but to go for an electronic control box that looks like the original. (See the MGA Guru site I provided the link for).

If on the other hand you want to make the Chinese control box work, start by cleaning its contacts with solvent if you have not already done so. Once that's done, polarize the generator (just to be sure) and go through the adjustment proceedure in Haynes. The control box is something I don't mess with.

Regarding the charge warning light... while it must be there and work for an alternator to charge the battery, I don't think the same is true for a generator/control box combination. I believe (but don't know for certain) that it really is an "indicator light" and not part of the circuit.

The product Norm was talking about is called a "DynaLite". It is available in Europe but I understand Moss will import one if anyone is feeling really, really, extravagent. When I inquired about this (when exchange rates were MUCH better) the delivered cost was going to be $800.

Doug L.

Posted: Jul-02-2008 09:49AM

number356
Total Posts: 179
Last Post: 09-23-08
Member Since: 01-21-03

Not converting to an alternator still. Once again - 45 years of with a gen. not converting now or ever. So here's the deal (helpmymini and others) My MG has a control box that was made in China (looks like a Lucas, did'nt know it was China made when I bought it). But I was able to touch the silinoid in the control box and make the charging system work, so i'm guessing it's out of adjustment - or I can just buy a real Lucas control box huh?

Posted: Jul-02-2008 08:32AM

kerr
Total Posts:
Last Post: 11-18-08
Member Since: 03-13-00

I know it is cheating, and expensive, but there are available now some alternators that are made to look as much like a generator as possible, for the hot rod crowd.

Just in case you wanted to put the maintenance issues behind you, but don't want to give up the look. (kind of like installing a Pertronix to your distributor, it looks the same, but works so much more regularly)

Norm

Posted: Jul-02-2008 08:22AM

helpmymini
Total Posts: 2712
Last Post: 11-18-08
Member Since: 04-26-05

I feel exactly like you do. I have a working gen, and a previously working VR box. I DON'T want to go to either an alt. or a diode. I do get so friggin frustrated that I would love to drive it, not just fix it though. That's the alt. crowd.

Se7en is right, the inclusion of the bulb is what allows the generator system to function. Think of it like a fuse. Make sure your ground wires are all secure and in good condition also. If the circuit can't be continued, it won't charge.

Keep us all up on what happens. Especially MEEEEEEE.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S

Posted: Jul-02-2008 08:05AM

number356
Total Posts: 179
Last Post: 09-23-08
Member Since: 01-21-03

Ok there is no way in hell i'm switching over to an alternator or modifing my MG. It worked great for the last 45 years and it will continue to do so. Jeez - I get a little problem and I need to switch to an alternator or solder in a diode? Nooooo (sorry for sounding harsh). With that said I really do appreciate se7en's response.

Posted: Jul-02-2008 07:21AM

Cup Cake
Total Posts: 5522
Last Post: 11-20-08
Member Since: 05-13-01

This would be a good time to change to an alternator.

Posted: Jul-02-2008 04:50AM

Se7en
Total Posts: 7159
Last Post: 11-20-08
Member Since: 01-16-00

356 - Does the ignition light illuminate when you first turn the key to "on"? If not, and it's burnt out, replace it and see that it comes on when the key is on and goes off when the engine is running and the generator takes over. If there's some other issue that prevents the light from coming on, solve that and your problem may be solved. An operating ignition light needs to be in the system.

SE7EN

Posted: Jul-02-2008 04:25AM

dklawson
Total Posts: 6021
Last Post: 11-19-08
Member Since: 06-05-00

Mark, I assume you are not seriously considering the diode and relay in place of the control box. I'm sure that after all your testing and adjustments you're aware that the control box regulates both the current and voltage output of the generator. The diode will prevent reverse current flow but will do nothing to protect the battery and generator from the high voltage (easily over 20V) and current that the uncontrolled generator can produce.

If you guys want a modern solution to the control box, visit Barney Gaylord's MGA-Guru web site. Specifically, see this page:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et232.htm

Doug L.

Posted: Jul-02-2008 02:13AM

helpmymini
Total Posts: 2712
Last Post: 11-18-08
Member Since: 04-26-05

it's all about the voltage regulator. You need to follow the directions in the manual, and hope to god it works. I currently am experiencing the same problem. I was told to go to an industrial supplier, buy a 50 amp 12 volt diode, and solder it inline from the gen to the battery. Then, solder a relay from the ignition to the field coil. No more regulator needed.

If you care to dink with it, all you need to do is dial the coil up with the tension spring to increase the voltage. Then, adjust the tension spring screw on the cut off to stay connected at a higher voltage.

don't forget to test your battery. Fixing a system is useless if all of the components aren't up to snuff.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S

Posted: Jul-01-2008 09:34PM

number356
Total Posts: 179
Last Post: 09-23-08
Member Since: 01-21-03

It's in the control box. I don't have a failing dynamo.

Posted: Jul-01-2008 08:54PM

Mabeita
Total Posts: 329
Last Post: 11-14-08
Member Since: 03-12-07

Don't turn your lights on.

Failing generator or alternator.

Michael Abeita
mikea@audioexpressusa.com

Posted: Jul-01-2008 08:50PM

number356
Total Posts: 179
Last Post: 09-23-08
Member Since: 01-21-03

Ok I have a first year MG Midget. When I drive with my lights on the battery goes dead and eventually my car will go dead also. I could read my book but thought i'd take a short cut and ask. I used to know all this - I need refreshing.

Found 16 Messages

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