not sure if this will help, but it will be worth a try. i experienced a near identical problem to yours. i found that i was missing the tapered washer on my front driver side axel. by not having it, it allowed the hub/wheel to have play. while driving, the play pushed my pads inward towards the caliper. so, the firt couple of pumps would be required to push the pads out towards the rotors so they can function. after i replaced the tapered washer, everything was fine.

btw, when i had the problem, it only happened while driving. like you, i bled my brakes and thought everything was fixed as my pedal would be firm. however, after a driving around a bit, the problem returned.

'73 VTEC Mini...click for pics

Here's my son's reaction just now when I told him I may need his help on pumping the brakes - "Oh no (groan), not again!". Unfortunately,  my vacuum bleeder has been borrowed by a friend.

The nipples/bleeders are on top but I will check on your tip on the adjusters, Norm. 

I fired her up this morning just to warm up the oil prior to changing it ... but I soon found myself cruising fast down the highway with a big smile on my face.  Whoa!  She really can move.  She's just a 998 but I think the 12G259 (or something like that, I forgot what the number really is) head really makes it go!  I have to get the insurance going again though.

Still double-pumping ...

considering the number of people who race Minis with standard master cylinders, calipers and wheel cylinders, it's pretty unlikely that you really need aftermarket setups like Wilwood or Tilton.  I struggled for a time with brake issues using standard parts and had to pump before really using the brakes heavily.  But I eventually got the brakes to work after a lot of bleeding and cursing.  No need for aftermarket bits.

I can't give you any secret tips that will make your brakes work the way you want, but you sure don't need to waste money on aftermarket bits.

just to make sure, are your calipers mounted with the bleeders at the top? (so the air comes out when bled). Others have made the mistake before, of mounting them to the wrong side of the car, putting the bleeders at the bottom, and not being able, then, to bleed the system.

Here's a thought: you said that it is good for a few days, and then gets worse, I wonder if your rear adjusters are not working right - you are making sure to adjust them to the flats, right? (the adjuster is a square shape and has to be tightened to the best "flat" that gets the shoes as close as possible, without dragging, on the drum) If an adjuster was left on one of its corners it would probably rotate 45 degrees after a bit of driving and that brake would go right out of adjustment.

Norm

Rear drums, shoes and cylinders are brand new, adjusted the darn rears numerous  times. Master cylinder rebuilt twice, front pads replaced although they were still pretty good.  Bled the system properly a million times (the brake fluid containers have actually piled up one time) and have actually bought and used the vacuum pump power bleeder.  No signs of leaks, the reservoir is at the same level and it actually is still full after more than a year of not using the car. 

The thing is, no matter what I do, the brake goes back to the same condition after a few days or so after I adjust it/bleed it/etc.  It will be good right after I work on it, then slowly goes back to it's old ways.

I get good brakes though when I double pump and would get the mini to stop in very short distance even when I am going real fast!

Should I just leave it alone then?

-Eugene

I dig it.

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If your brake pedal needs to be pumped up, that is a classic sign of rear shoes needing adjustment (or an out of round brake drum preventing you from adjusting it the way it wants to be adjusted). Bubbles in the line might also be the cause, make sure your calipers are installed the right way around (bleeder at the top) and that you've bled the system real good.

If you are looking to solve a basic operation problem that might just indicate needing a repair or adjustment, I'd recommend to repair/adjust what you've got.

If, on the other had, like you said, you've tried everything and just don't like what came with the mini and you're looking for a reason to install those (very nicely made) after market pedal assemblies then go for it.

I generally double pump my brakes every time on British cars just out of habit. Like you said, it does give a firmer pedal (especially with a non-power assisted set up), but also it gives a brake light flash to folks behind ("don't hit me!").

Norm

Have been gone for a long time and I am looking at getting my mini on the road again.  Either this question has not been asked yet or the search engine is not working so my apologies if this is already a redundant topic.  I have to ask though ...

Regarding the Tilton and the Wilwood brake and clutch pedal kits, has anyone done a conversion yet? Any thoughts on them?  Are they worth it and which one gets more recommended?  Any links that I can go to? 

The clutch is good on my mini, but I have to double pump my brakes to get a good feel on them.  Been there and done all adjustments and replaced almost all worn out parts.  Did all the tricks and tips you can think of, and I guess I'm tired and maybe converting to these pedal kits will do the trick.

Thanks!

Gary