Hey all. I just want to say thanks for all those that helped out with my problem. Sure enough the 2 lines that are in the back of the intake near the firewall were not even connected. The elbow ends were hard as a rock and broken. I have since replaced them, checked the rest and its running alot better then before. I still smell like gas after driving it but not nearly as bad as it was. Perhaps an O2 sensor will finish off the needed maintenance. Agian thanks to all. I will post this on the main page with some new questions of advice. Steve
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Mabeita
Total Posts: 329
Last Post: 11-14-08
Member Since: 03-12-07
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Congrats on the Mini. I have a 1995 SPI and have recently had to perform some of the repairs that you're being advised of, none of which are very hard. One thing to add though, when checking the vacuum hoses make sure to check the rubber conncetorr ends as well. A minor crack in one of these was the cause for my problems, it flexed when the engine moved under torque and therefore was a real pain to identify as the problem. That being said I would recommend replacing them just if there is even the slightest doubt that they are in good condition. You can find suitable replacements at any local parts store for a couple of bucks a piece. Good luck. Michael Abeita mikea@audioexpressusa.com 
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robwkamm
Total Posts: 430
Last Post: 11-26-08
Member Since: 12-12-06
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Quote: Originally Posted by Manuel B Congratulations on the Mini !, It makes no difference where the distributor is set, the ECU sets and adjusts the timing to suit the needs, but the ECU needs correct imput from the sensors, the vacuum lines must be leak free, the sensor back by the cat is for Jap spec cars to tell when the cat is clogged and overheating and doesn't show up in our books, the O2 sensor is close to where the exhaust pipes first come together, you can see it easier from the right rear of the engine facing the firewall, they usually don't give any trouble, someone with a scanner could tell you the problem quickly but they are not easy to find, |
I BELIEVE THE DISTRIBUTOR HAS TO BE IN PHASE AND LINED UP DOESNT IT? OR THE COMPUTER CANNOT CONTROL THE TIMING BECAUSE THE BASE IS WAY OFF? how many project cars is enough?
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mr.x
Total Posts: 844
Last Post: 07-29-08
Member Since: 09-30-05
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I've got a brand new SPi compressor for sale. It's in-stock and ready to go! Check the link below.
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I have an 1995 SPI (actually an early 1996) that I bought earlier this year. There is a ton of good info on the SPI fuel injection systems at http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?showforum=140 (The Mini Forum). I also had some issues when I first bought the car that turned out to be caused by a bad ECU but I ended up going through the whole fuel injection system during the diagnosis. As others have said, the vaccuum lines that go from the manifold to the manifold pressure sensor on the ECU are the most common cause of issues. Remove those and blow them out. There is a fuel trap inline that you should also confirm is clear of fluid. You mention that you checked all the exhaust, did you also check to see whether the gasket was leaking between the downpipe and the exhaust - that was replaced recently on mine before I bought it. Other things to check: 1) When you turn off the car, you should here the stepper motor driving the throttle to the correct default position for starting. Have someone key off while you are watching and you should see the throttle lever arm move slightly. If you don't, you may have an issue with the stepper motor (this does not sound like your problem). 2) You can check the temp sensors (intake air / coolant temp) with an Ohm-meter. Check out the Mini Forum - I think there is a Sticky that gives the correlation between temp and resistance for each. If you coolant temperature sensor is reading way off, this can cause the car to fuel improperly and could cause your car to run rich. Mine was actually unplugged when I got the car! 3) Most other things require a diagnostic tool - see if any of the Mini enthusiasts in your area have one - this makes troubleshooting much easier. I've used both the Crypton ACT 1 and Sykes Pickavant ACR and prefer the ACT as it has more information and automated "tuning" options. I just recently acquired one (from Ebay in the UK) and it allows you to quickly check the "health" of all your sensors. If you end up in a real bind and can't find one, I can send you mine in a couple of weeks. 4) The Lambda / Oxygen sensor doesn't have to be as expensive as people make it out to be. I got one from MiniSport in the UK for about $40 or so. It is not a Bosch but works fine. I decided to go ahead and replace mine because I already was taking the intake manifold off and I have read that the Lambda sensor should be replaced every few years as they tend to break / wear out. If you determine that your car has been running very rich for a long time, this can damage the O2 sensor so you may want to replace it. I also went ahead and replaced my coolant temp sensor. Since I got my ECU issues worked out, my car has been very reliable daily driver starting easily and run great regardless of weather / temps.
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minimized
Total Posts: 1154
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 01-08-02
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That was good advise. Replace the vaccum tube connected between the ECU and the little black plastic fuel trap mounted at the rear of throttle body. Any tube of the correct ID will work great, just go to your local auto supply.
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Manuel B
Total Posts: 448
Last Post: 11-13-08
Member Since: 01-02-05
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Congratulations on the Mini !, It makes no difference where the distributor is set, the ECU sets and adjusts the timing to suit the needs, but the ECU needs correct imput from the sensors, the vacuum lines must be leak free, the sensor back by the cat is for Jap spec cars to tell when the cat is clogged and overheating and doesn't show up in our books, the O2 sensor is close to where the exhaust pipes first come together, you can see it easier from the right rear of the engine facing the firewall, they usually don't give any trouble, someone with a scanner could tell you the problem quickly but they are not easy to find,
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I've got a '95 SPi that had similar issues to what you describe (rough idle, running rich, etc.). I changed the vacuum tubes about 2 weeks ago and noticed an instant improvement. The car runs very smooth and doesn't smell of gas so much. I thought it might be the O2 sensor at first, and I'm glad it's not. It's hard to find one for less than $250. I picked up the vacuum tubes locally here in Japan for about $25. Minimania does sell them, however expect a delay as they don't keep them stocked. Good luck with the car, once it runs well you'll have a blast. Oh, one more thing, it'll take a bit for the ECU to settle down with the adjustments. Mine didn't start for the first 8-10 times I tried to turn it over. Just keep at it and let it run for a while. "Well, ya see, I'm not saying that I've been everywhere and I've done everything, but I do know it's a pretty amazing planet we live on here, and a man would have to be some kind of FOOL to think we're alone in THIS universe." -- Jack Burton in Big Trouble in Little China 
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Ive got a compresor for a mini, what kind of belt does your mini use, the 5 groove type or the v groove? email me for more info on the compressor (drh86 @ comcast . net) take out the spaces. As Pologround said, check the hoses as it is very very important for the ecu to be getting the correct vaccum reading to supply the proper fueling along with a few other things but for the most part the hoses seem to be the biggest problem due to easy cracking. "Sorry, Jedi mind tricks don't work on retards"-Retarded Policeman mediocre films
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pologround
Total Posts: 1657
Last Post: 11-22-08
Member Since: 05-10-04
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congratulations! check the follwing areas for vacuum leaks: 1. vacuum hose (from ecu to the green receiver of the fuel trap (looks like a cigarette lighter)- see picture 2. short vacuum hose, connects manifold to fuel trap's black receiver.- see pic 3. look for a red and yellow hoses and make sure they're sound and are connected (red connects from air box to throtle body and the yellow connects to the remaining ports. read here for detailed spi blues - good luck! herman  
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pmustang
Total Posts: 18885
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 09-03-00
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Doesn't the O2 sensor plug into the downtube of the exhaust? At least I think it does on later model autos. Peter No more cars left, Westpaminis is now just a memory, Good luck to all those hard working dealers left out there, We can tell you its not easy. We have fully enjoyed meeting all the fine folks we have in the business.
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Dr Mini
Total Posts: 4254
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 05-23-02
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The SPI does have a distributor, it is the MPI that doesn't. That is good for you. I can't really help you with the issue you have, as I have never had a SPI car, but there are others on here that have and can help. It should have an O2 sensor, but again, I wouldn't know where to start to look. Good luck, and welcome to our crazy world!
"Retired: No Job, No Money, No Wife! Will
travel anywhere for Minis"
hockey91dad@hotmail.com
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Hi all. I am down here in Southern NM and my wife and I just got a 1996 Rover Mini. The vehicle is in really good condition with about 49K orig miles on it. It has a 1.3 SPI with air conditioning. But I am in need of some advice/help. We drove the mini back home (10+ hours) the other night and about passed out, lol. I thought that there was an exhaust leak due to the strong smell or perhaps it was just running rich. Having the windows down or up didnt help much at all. And the smell was stronger upon letting off the gas. Now the black soot around the tail pipe indicates to me that its running rich to include the increase in smell as the gas pedal is let off. It also sputters when turning of the ignition as if it doesnt wanna stop and when its running it has a rough idle. Now today I inspected the exhuast system and from what I can see its in decent condition with no leaks or rot. So this brings me to my question. How can I fix this problem based from what I know so far? One guy told me to replace the O2 sensor but I cant find one nor am I even sure it has one. But I did find a temp sensor or it seems behind the Cat. Now I thought about the timing but that got me more confused. The Haynes manual says that the 1.3 1996 SPI doesnt have a distributor and to have the timing done through the ECU by a Rover dealer. Now I dont have a Rover dealer anywhere nearby nor do I know of one in a neighboring state that can do this. But as I look at the engine I can see what the Haynes manual calls a traditional distributor mounted toward the front of the block below a coil. But the maunal says that there isnt one for the 1.3 SPI that has an ECU. But I have both an ECU and what looks to me to be a distributor. So any ideas and help on this? What should I do to correct this issue and to keep from smelling like an exhaust pipe everytime I drive the car? Oh yes one last thing. The AC system has a leak and I have a feeling it could be the compressor unit. And the Radio isnt there, yet it had one. Any place to get a used compressor, radio or such? Anyways thanks to everyone for reading this and I hope you all will chime in with any advice or suggestions. Thanks Steve
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