The only way this can happen (apart from a very small movements associated with loose wheel bearing or perhaps ball joints) is if the tie rod or its mounts are damaged (or the wheel is actually turning around the vertical axis).

Lie under the car (just your head in front of the wheel will do) and have someone force the wheel back and forward. Check for movement where the tie rod meets the lower arm, where the tie rod attaches to the front subgrame bracket and the bracket itself. Basically there shouldn't be any movement anywhere.

If the tie rod to lower arm moves then the bolt that joins them is probably broken..simple to replace.

If the bracket moves then the subframe is fractured. You either need a new subframe or a very good welder to re-attach the bracket. Not a real problem if you find a decent welder.... and you could add a bit of reinforcing like the Works did with some of their rally cars.

If the tie rod moves in the bracket then either the end of the rod or the bushes are damaged. The damage should be obvious on close inspection and you just have to replace the damaged part. I see no reason to go with rose joints (as the article you quote proposes) for the tie rod unless you run REALLY big and grippy tyres on the track. If you choose plastic bushes, then only use the hard bush at the front (the bushes come in pairs (for each side)). Use a standard rubber bush for the back item of the pair. Otherwise the suspension movement can cause the tie rod to flex rather than the bush. This can cause it to snap (BTDT 8-0).

If the tie rod etc all checks out OK then the damage is probably in the rack. You can check by grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 oclock and trying to rotate it around the vertical axis.

The pulling makes it seem more likely to be a tie rod to me.

Cheers, Ian

Hey Cliffyboy,

What's the latest on the problem with your car? Has the problem been resolved? What caused the car to veer left?

sorry it is the front wheels. What I meant is that when you try to drive forward with the hand barke on the wheels have movement at the front. Think of it like this, if you push the wheel with you foot whilst parked, it actully moves forward and back wards, see this write up I got from OUT MOTORING

When I started to get a couple phone calls a week about older MINI's that were needing replacement front control arm bushings it was time to offer these hardcore replacements for those that wanted more control of their suspension. Basically, the front A arm bushings suck and over time they simply fall apart which in turn lets your wheel sort of wobble around which will result in trashed tires in a heartbeat. If you can move or wiggle your wheel any or if you find that you have very strange tire wear, it's time to replace those bushings with either OEM units or these pups. Increase steering response while braking and accelerating with the ALTA Performance™ PSRS. The ALTA Performance PSRS replaces the front lower control arm mounts with a solid connection. Getting rid of this overly compliant bushing, gets rid of "wandering" when larger wheels and tires are installed. As a benefit, you will be able to set caster.

What the write up says, seems to be in accordance with what I think is the problem.

What do you think???

Thanks for your response buddy.

Just to tell you a little more about what I have done, may help you to help me.

1. I have booked the car into a garage, whom has already inspected it and said that it seems to be the lower front control arm bushes. He had asked me questions that I hoped he would, such as how does the car feel in corners, does it feel like the wheel/s are skidding on a marble like surface and whether the ride was rough and bumpy, my answer was yes to all questions, which made me feel quite confident.

 He then went onto show me whilst the car was still on the ground, that if you try to move forward with the hand brake on. The wheel actually moves when it should stay in a fixed point. He also showed this to me when trying to reverse with the hand barke on. Now I had already noticed that b=oth front wheels had lots of movement and thought it could be a problem.

 Now the thing that does concern, me is that when I hit this bloody pot hole, i heard a crack and tried to move forward and it wouldn't, this makes me wonder whether it is just the control arm bushes, as I can not see why I would not be able to drive forward if only these had broken, would the broken part have fallen into an area which would stop the wheel moving???

You mentioned that it could be  a cracked chassis / subframe. The effect I get from the steering wheel is that the steering wheel will not actually stay straight when driving, braking etc etc. Now I know that most british roads have a camber going downhill to the left, could this be why it veers if both bushes are F***ed. It literally feels that the steering wheel wants to flick to the left.

My other thoughts are the CV joint, although I have had 3 mechanics state that it is ok. Could it be the steering rack mount. Could it be the the actual steering rack is now out of line, thus wanting to always pull to the left.

Now to stop going on, I would like to ask if anyone can recommend any high standard MIN SPEcIALST within the SE london area. I have already been to Palmer Brothers In Mottingham, they replaced the engine mounts but siad tha the rest of the car was fine.

Regards Cliff

Thanks everyone for your answers, althoguh very helpful, you have all given me even worse worries about what it could be. I aint a mechanic so aint got a clue, BUT BIG THANKS TO ALL

SE7EN

Torque steer is more of a description of an effect rather than a cause. So when you say "my car pulls to the left on acceleration" and the mechanic says "that's torque steer," he's right but, he hasn't told you anything you don't already know.

Cheers,

Kelley

"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."

It does sound like a caster problem (left wheel further back than right causing continual veering to left) maybe associated with distortion of the front locating point for the control arm/tie rod.  Like others have suggested, something is "broken" and you should not drive the Mini until it is identified and fixed.

Pure speculation but has the nut on the end of the control arm/tie rod stripped some threads??  See if it's got fewer exposed threads than the right side.

Mini friends!  Mini rides!

Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit, 2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70 A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.

SE7EN

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, No Wife!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

hockey91dad@hotmail.com

I have a mini cooper s, which is veering quite badly to the left hand side.

I have had it checked out by supposed mini specialists, whom I feel have just fed me bull*!*! by saying that is called torque steer.

I think it is the lower front control arm bushes that may need changing. One mechanic has howed me that both front wheels move, when actually they should not.

This happened when I hit a pot hole. I heard a large crack when it happened and has never driven straight since. When I heard the crack I stopped and then the car would not move forward, I turned the engine off then on again and it worked but still veered towards one side.

Does anyone think it could be anything else apart from the control arm bush. All driveshafts, wishbines, suspension struts etc have been checked and are not bent.