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rotbox
Total Posts: 2315
Last Post: 09-18-08
Member Since: 01-10-00
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Glad it worked for you! Suggest you not look down the throat of the carb while cracking the throttle, they have been known to backfire through the carb now and then. You might end up having to regrow your eyebrows......
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mini_fly
Total Posts: 867
Last Post: 11-17-08
Member Since: 06-25-02
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Well after using a lot of the advice on this thread, I got it started. A few timing issues fixed and I actually could let it run till the fuel ran out in the carb bowl. I did notice a bit of a clunk at hight revs and there seemed to be smoke out of the exhaust at any rpm. After checking the plugs which were all nice and black, I found that I must have a leaky gasket or bad rings in #3 as that plug was covered in oil. So I don't think this is a candidate for installation until I take it apart and go through the engine. It was neat to look down the throat of the carb as I opened the throttle. You could see the fuel come out of the jet and atomize into the manifold. Maybe I'll do some video after my brother gets back from Dizzyland with my video camera. Henry
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Club Man
Total Posts: 5333
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 02-27-99
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Quote: Originally Posted by rotbox Not a big deal! I started mine sitting on the garage floor a few years ago. Just set it on an old piece of carpet, it does not need to be strapped down at all. Ran the fuel line through an electric fuel pump plumbed into a can of lawn mower gas. Hot wire from the battery to the switch side of the coil and wire from dizzy side to the distributor. Ground battery to engine and hot jumper to the starter lug to spin it over. Make sure the radiator is full, I did have some exhaust and a muffler stuck on with an oil pressure gauge attached. Ran fine, no problems. |
Same here. No issues at all doing it. To stop, pull the wire off the ignition.
Make it idiot proof, and someone will make a better
idiot....
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kerr
Total Posts:
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 03-13-00
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no, you don't need the alternator.
Just battery power to the hot side of the distributor, and, of course, momentarily, to the starter. And a secure ground to the negative side of the battery.
Like said above, you don't even need the radiator, if you keep it to under a minute or so. In fact, if your engine is freshly built you don't want coolant in it at all until your new, black Payen head gasket is heated and seated!
Don't forget to plug the oil pressure gage hole and the coolant sender hole, if you've got mechanical gages. No worries if you've got electric senders for both (no need to hook them up, just to keep the stuff on the inside).
Norm
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mini_fly
Total Posts: 867
Last Post: 11-17-08
Member Since: 06-25-02
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Wow, some real good tips here! Thanks for the offer Marcel, I just don't think I can make it down to the 'Big City' in the next couple of weeks. Besides, I want to give this a try and see what kind of racket I can make for my neighbors! I think I can rig a fuel supply from above the carb, battery and exhast system. Do I need to do anything with connecting the alternator? I'll take a closer look at the wiring diagram to see what I need to rig up for the ignition. Henry
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rotbox
Total Posts: 2315
Last Post: 09-18-08
Member Since: 01-10-00
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Not a big deal! I started mine sitting on the garage floor a few years ago. Just set it on an old piece of carpet, it does not need to be strapped down at all. Ran the fuel line through an electric fuel pump plumbed into a can of lawn mower gas. Hot wire from the battery to the switch side of the coil and wire from dizzy side to the distributor. Ground battery to engine and hot jumper to the starter lug to spin it over. Make sure the radiator is full, I did have some exhaust and a muffler stuck on with an oil pressure gauge attached. Ran fine, no problems.
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charrison
Total Posts: 243
Last Post: 12-02-08
Member Since: 09-11-00
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Strap the engine to something solid.
You don't need the carb on - just use a small garden hand sprayer to spray fuel straight into the inlet manifold.
Really its a two man job, some one on the battery with jump leads connected to the starter. Your self on the sprayer.
You need sparks of course, so have the ignition system all attached and live.
When you want to stop, stop spraying.
If the cooling system isn't fitted, do it for no more than 30 seconds.
If you have a third person, they can do the gears, with or without clutch.
Its all rather unsafe, great fun and really noisy, so if you're the litigious sort and don't want to take personal responsibility for your actions, DONT DO IT.
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IK
Total Posts: 496
Last Post: 12-02-08
Member Since: 01-19-07
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At Tech we had set ups on sack barrows that had a coil a battery secured to the tray at the bottom and a small fuel tank, you could wheel it round hook up 5 wires (coil + coil- dizzy plug and starter + -) and a fuel line. the fuel line fed the carb with a low pressure pump. press the start button and away it went. we started engine in engin stands(just usual red ones) with mufflers fitted. worked well if u only want to run engin for 5 mins other wise would over heat and seize  (instant fail). oh we had oil in the sumps to. People are like slinkeys; they dont really serve a purpose but you cant help laughing when one falls down the stairs.
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Spitz
Total Posts: 6621
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 01-22-03
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I got a motor from Mr. Big Al.....I started it in the crate it arrived in....gravity fed the fuel into the bowl...leave the exhaust open (also the door). Motor stays faily still. Oil?...um, yes A FATHER CARRIES PICTURES WHERE HIS MONEY USED TO BE 1130cc, 12g295, SW5 cam, LCB, HIF38, CA spec.
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jbelanger
Total Posts: 128
Last Post: 11-30-08
Member Since: 12-26-00
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Marcel, Which ECU are you going to use? Have you seen Paul's results on the turbomini forum? Jean
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chichm
Total Posts: 1008
Last Post: 11-03-08
Member Since: 02-20-00
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Henry, bring it down and we can put it on here: 
I have to dismount the EFI 8-port anyway since my brother and I will be pursuing the EFI 5-port thang again with his engine. The stand will be open for a week or so while I prep the other power unit.
visit my world
www.starchak.ca also check out www.TDCperformance.ca
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Wombat
Total Posts: 522
Last Post: 12-01-08
Member Since: 08-08-01
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With every thing hooked up it only takes a hand on the rocker cover to keep it steady. Oh and point the exhaust outside Wombat "Compound Ignorance - You don't know-and you don't know that you don't know"
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declanm
Total Posts: 626
Last Post: 12-02-08
Member Since: 04-08-08
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Seven Enteprises in Auburn, California has a clever test stand on which they run engines before they are installed in cars. It's very compact, on casters and can be rolled about. It is only about 3-4 foot square and 3 feet tall. There is a minimum of wiring, plumbing, etc. Follow this link and scroll all the way to the bottom to see a picture of this test stand. http://www.7ent.com/page.cfm?pageid=48
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Hunter2
Total Posts: 2067
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 11-02-06
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We had a club member start his fresh engine while the power unit sat unsecured on his driveway. No my choice, but after hooking up the power to an oiled and cooled engine, it ran merrily away after oil pressure was established. I've forgotten how the fuel was delivered to the carb...I guess he just couldn't wait to hear the song from the A series. Mini friends! Mini rides! Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit, 2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70 A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.
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mini_fly
Total Posts: 867
Last Post: 11-17-08
Member Since: 06-25-02
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I am wondering what sort of procedure you would go through to start an engine that is not installed in a car? What sort of electrical conenctions you would have to make or rig up for this to happen? You would need to fill the engine with oil. Fill with coolant/water and make a complete path for coolant flow. Attach a battery to start it. Attach a supply of fuel. Secure the engine? Basic exhaust system? How would you rig the starting/stopping of the engine? Would you need to attach the clutch master cylinder? Thanks for any help, Henry
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