| Spitz |
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| User Since: | 01-22-03 |
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Posted: May-14-2008 08:24PM
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Ditto on the original type...easy peasy. Now...the automatic unit is a different story...the right side is a real beeatch! A FATHER CARRIES PICTURES WHERE HIS MONEY USED TO BE 1130cc, 12g295, SW5 cam, LCB, HIF38, CA spec.
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| BRG Mini |
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Posted: May-14-2008 03:11PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by partsguy1 ............. lay a little piece of paper towel over the box end of your combination wrench, then push the Hex Head of the bolt in the paper towel....... that locks the bolt to the wrench, makes it super easy to reach in and locate the bolt. |
See, it's little tips and tricks like this that make hanging out here ROCK! I'm buying new (normal) mounts. willy
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| partsguy1 |
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Posted: May-14-2008 03:04PM
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Yeah, I'm a bolts through the inside, nuts on outside kinda guy as well. Little trick Marcel showed me ............. lay a little piece of paper towel over the box end of your combination wrench, then push the Hex Head of the bolt in the paper towel....... that locks the bolt to the wrench, makes it super easy to reach in and locate the bolt. Always nice to learn little tricks like that. Terry If your not on the edge............ your taking up to much space.
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| Dean2 |
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Posted: May-14-2008 02:47PM
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Standard mounts, bolts down for me, too. I was amazed at how much easier they are to put in. With the bolts down, I found it pretty easy to get a short wrench on the heads. I've got a MkIV and always pull the radiator off when pulling and replacing the power unit. The problem with the captive nut variety, as far as I could tell, was that there is a small amount of the nut sticking through to the outer side, adding some width. Also, the captive nut material isn't great and strips pretty easily. When I tried them, I ended up stripping two and therefore going through the PIA of putting bolts on top of them. Finally, if you take the captive nuts out, the hole is larger than the hole in the subframe and the bolt. Using them that way would allow for some movement and would probably be VERY BAD for the bolts. Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel from coast to coast without seeing anything.
Charles Kuralt Autox/Rallyx Videos
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| Alex |
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Posted: May-14-2008 02:20PM
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I refuse to use captive nuts, and insist on putting the bolts downwards for safety reasons.
I was timed last month when I put the new engine in, and it took almost exactly 8 minutes to align and do up the non-gen engine mounts... Metric is for people who can't do fractions.
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| BRG Mini |
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Posted: May-14-2008 09:49AM
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Thanks for the info. Everything is kinda what I remembered, just comes down to one's personal experience. I guess there's always the option or reusing the old ones, they didn't look bad. But then it's one of those things where you should replace when you have the chance. I think I'll give it a try, and if it doesn't work, I'll try punching out the inserts and use regular bolts per mur's method. Anyone have any info on whether the captive nuts can work loose? They're not welded, but I guess since they're angled, it's unlikely to work loose? willy
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| kerr |
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| User Since: | 03-13-00 |
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Posted: May-14-2008 08:49AM
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if any mounts give you trouble lining up, just leave the engine weight pressing down on them overnight, and then try again the next day with "seasoned" mounts and William is your father's brother.
minis have a tougher time that most cars in this respect because our mounts are angled into a kind of a wedge, making their springy shape a big factor in fitting new ones, so the above pre-compression is recommended.
Norm
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| Swift Justice |
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Posted: May-14-2008 08:34AM
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I used original Rover OEM mounts in Rosie II, the only way to go. You have to fiddle with them either way. although its easier with the subbie out of the car. Steve Life is driving Minis. Everything else is just waiting. 
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| joltfreak |
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Posted: May-14-2008 04:30AM
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i used the style that had the nuts welded to the back and they were fine execpt for one hole which was a bugger to line up.
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| 1963S |
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Posted: May-14-2008 02:56AM
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Either are a pain in the neck... and both are usuable. Use whatever you have, but.
If you have a choice, IMHO, the original style are a bit easier.
Cheers, Ian
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| 37Driver |
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Posted: May-14-2008 02:45AM
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I must be the luckiest guy around. They worked like a charm for me.
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| Isleblue65 |
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Posted: May-14-2008 01:57AM
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My current set of mounts has the captive nuts. Yes, they were a headache to get the bolts started initially(I had to use probes and heel bars to align the holes) but now that they've settled in, it falls right into place whenever I remove and replace the motor. I replaced the original mounts some years ago, and remember trying to get a wrench up on top of the mounts with little to no success. I think I ended up using a nut splitter to bust the nut off, and that was when I decided that captive nuts were the way to go. "I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?" 
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| mur |
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Posted: May-13-2008 09:55PM
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I too always use original mounts. I also place the bolts through from the inside, the idea is that even if the nut rattles loose, the bolt will then have to fall up to get out. Just drop the engine in, sneak the driveshafts into place and then wiggle slightly to get the mounts at about the right spot, then align the hole with a punch and slide the cleaned up 5/16" unf bolt through, adding a spring washer and then the nut. easy Peasy
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| Cheleker |
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Posted: May-13-2008 06:50PM
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I'm firmly in the camp of those that use the "factory" mounts.
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| JSG |
| Total Posts: | 244 |
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Posted: May-13-2008 06:38PM
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I'm with wrenchhead, I always weld my nuts!
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| Hunter2 |
| Total Posts: | 1679 |
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Posted: May-13-2008 05:11PM
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DOH...go for the captive nuts. Use a tapered punch to line up as power unit is lowered. Bob's your uncle (he's not mine).
Mini friends! Mini rides!
Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit,
2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70
A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.
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| wrenchhead |
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Posted: May-13-2008 04:43PM
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A good trick is to spot weld the nuts to the back side of the mount,works ok for me.almost impossible to get a wrench on the back nut even with a special wrench i bent just for this. http://austinmini.ositech.net/Hosting/WrenchHead/wrenchhead.htm 1996 silverbullet limited edition @ tim's aka (wrenchhead on MM board) year-to-date progress > photos > see photos here: http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g251/pologround/test/Silverbullet%20mini/
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| tvanderh |
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Posted: May-13-2008 04:35PM
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IMHO toss them as far as you can throw them. They wouldn't work for me and I ordered the rover mounts and they dropped right in. I couldn't see a difference between the two as to why they wouldn't fit but I fought them for a couple hours before tossing them. Not worth the hassle for the little cost difference. Todd My Mini's are un-officially sponsored by Coor's brewing company.
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| BRG Mini |
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Posted: May-13-2008 04:22PM
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While waiting for my engine to be rebuilt, I decided to go through my box of parts to see what I still need to order. I found a set of engine mounts with the captive nuts and I remember some people were saying they aren't worth the trouble because it's hard to align with the holes in the subframe. Should I buy a normal pair? 
Looks like these captive nuts could work loose, too. Anybody want to share their experience with these? willy
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