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cant get the thermostat cover off a 1275
TOPIC:  

cant get the thermostat cover off a 1275

    Created by: Will Albers
Orig. Posting Date User Name Edit Date Msg No.
May-14-2008 07:25AM Swift Justice Edited: May-14-2008 07:27AM   839880
May-14-2008 07:12AM Club Man   839876
May-14-2008 06:28AM Alex   839861
May-13-2008 07:53PM Cheese~   839795
May-13-2008 07:31PM Minimike1   839786
May-13-2008 04:38PM tvanderh   839740
May-13-2008 03:45PM Cheleker   839729
May-13-2008 01:32PM Se7en   839704
May-13-2008 01:00PM Will Albers   839700
May-13-2008 12:55PM pixieracing   839698
May-13-2008 12:54PM Club Man   839697
May-13-2008 12:43PM Will Albers   839695

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Found 12 Messages   Page 1 of 1:   1 
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 Posted: May-14-2008 07:25AM
 Edited:  May-14-2008 07:27AM
Swift Justice
Total Posts: 3767
Last Post: 12-02-08
Member Since: 01-04-02

 
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I think an investment in a good set of stud remover sockets is a wise option, much quicker and better than the double nut method IMHO.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-PC-NEIKO-STUD-PULLER-REMOVER-SOCKET-WRENCH-TOOL-SAE-5_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43993QQihZ011QQitemZ320249987506QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Steve

You will learn more about Minis by driving one for 30 minutes than if you read every book written about them.

 

 Posted: May-14-2008 07:12AM
Club Man
Total Posts: 5333
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 02-27-99

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
before you back out the studs with the double nuts, give them a cinch as in tightening them. Then back them out. and pb and heat in that order.
Good advice. I've found when removing rusted bolts/studs, it's always good to turn out a bit, then turn back in a bit, spray PB, repeat,....it gives the bolt a chance to clear the corrosion from the threads so it doesn't bind up and break...

Make it idiot proof, and someone will make a better idiot....

 

 Posted: May-14-2008 06:28AM
Alex
Total Posts: 5828
Last Post: 11-30-08
Member Since: 03-24-99

 
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I've become a dab hand at helicoiling the thermostat housing...

If you need to smash it off, I have a pile of the housings in a box in the shed. Some have even been bead blasted !

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

 Posted: May-13-2008 07:53PM
Cheese~
Total Posts: 3191
Last Post: 12-01-08
Member Since: 06-25-01

 
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You guys are a lot more patient than me.  When mine got stuck, I bought a replacement housing, then smashed the one on the motor to pieces with a hammer.  It was quite therapeutic really. 

 

Prez, Mini Owners of America, Los Angeles

 Posted: May-13-2008 07:31PM
Minimike1
Total Posts: 4197
Last Post: 10-26-08
Member Since: 02-26-99

 
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before you back out the studs with the double nuts, give them a cinch as in tightening them. Then back them out. and pb and heat in that order.

 Posted: May-13-2008 04:38PM
tvanderh
Total Posts: 757
Last Post: 09-14-08
Member Since: 08-21-05

 
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I had to do the above mentioned cutting the housing apart and screwing it off the head. If I had to do it again, I might drill the studs to save the housing. Seems like it was kind of pricey and or hard to get, can't remember.

My Mini's are un-officially sponsored by Coor's brewing company.

 Posted: May-13-2008 03:45PM
Cheleker
Total Posts: 7742
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 12-03-02

 
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More than possible...almost certain the issue is corrosion between the studs and housing. PB and heat and double nuts and crossed fingers. If the studs don't want to budge, there's always the option of cutting the housing in pieces and twisting them off each stud so you can get better access to the studs. (Had to do that once.) The other choice of breaking the studs off in the head isn't a very good one, either.

 Posted: May-13-2008 01:32PM
Se7en
Total Posts: 7206
Last Post: 12-02-08
Member Since: 01-16-00

 
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It is possible that your problem is corrosion in the stud holes locking it down rather than the result of too much gasket maker material.  I like the PB blaster suggestion because gravity is helping it work.  Give it a day to soak, and add more every few hours as it soaks down. The last thing you want to do is to shear the studs off when trying to back them out.  If you do then the project becomes way too much fun.

SE7EN

 Posted: May-13-2008 01:00PM
Will Albers
Total Posts: 158
Last Post: 06-18-08
Member Since: 10-08-07

 
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I will give the double nut method a try. Thanks!

 Posted: May-13-2008 12:55PM
pixieracing
Total Posts: 645
Last Post: 10-31-08
Member Since: 02-15-03

 
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take out the studs by putting two nuts on and tighten   then turn the stud out,  heat it lightly with a propane torch   and  tap with rubber mallet       . try not to pry with a screwdriver it can damage the aluminum .

 Posted: May-13-2008 12:54PM
Club Man
Total Posts: 5333
Last Post: 12-03-08
Member Since: 02-27-99

 
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Can you double nut the studs and pull them first?  That would make it somewhat easier by allowing lateral movement. Try PB Blaster penetrant. Heat may help from a propane torch to soften the goo.

Make it idiot proof, and someone will make a better idiot....

 

 Posted: May-13-2008 12:43PM
Will Albers
Total Posts: 158
Last Post: 06-18-08
Member Since: 10-08-07

 
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Someone used gasket maker on the dan thing and its "welded" on there. Just use a torch? Any other suggestions? i tried to wedge a screwdriver in but the metal is soft.

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