I did my strip with the tool, dish soap, and 5 mins of time. I waited till the car was warm in the sun. Once you get your groove on, it is smooth sailing. Kicked myself for not doing it sooner.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S

well you could do it all over next weekend.

If I were going to use one of the products, I would probably go for the KY, as its a water based lubricant.  The dish soap, while it would work, is going to probably leak out for a while everytime you wash your car, plus dish soap will strip away your wax, and its inevitable that your going to get it on your paint.

 OH, a nice surprise!!  NO RUST UNDER THE SEAL WHEN I TOOK IT OUT!   WOOT WOOT!  Only thing I did learn that I wish I would have done is polish the dash before I put it back in, and thrown a coat of wax over it.

I believe it was Mtgibby who first suggested KY to me.  Prior to that I had always used dish soap. 

Doug L.

Glad to hear the advice.  I'm going to replace the yellowed trim strip (why do they discolor?) front and rear.  So KY or dish soap is the way to go?

"To catch one, you need one"....John Cooper

I'm glad you got the glass in but I'm surprised you had such a time of it.  If you used the string around the perimeter method and then put the lock strip in dry you made this a bit harder than it needed to be.  The easy method is to fit the rubber to the body opening then use plastic/wood tools to pry the rubber over the glass.  Finally, apply dish soap or KY jelly to the lockstrip channel and insert the lock strip with the tool.  Installing the glass works much better using the later two steps than the first method.

Doug L.

Wheewww!  What a pain in the butt!  I had the tool, still didnt make it any easier.  Glad to have a new seal in there, as I had a little leak from the last one, and a fresh chrome strip, but hope its not something I want to do again anytime soon.  FInally got off my butt and put some time into the pickup, installed insulation from my old 93, and a two speed heater from my 96 Cooper.  Still have to install the defroster pipes, but everything works.  The original heater was the old style with the flappy door at the bottom, and the pipes leading to it never even got hot.  Looked to be that the core was gunked up with a bunch of rust and other crap, so I cleaned it out for about an hour, and seems to flow fine now.  Still using the original switch in the pickup to get power to the heater, as I may switch to a full length dash with padded lower a little later down the line.  Next up is to keep working on detailing it.