Easily Add Power with Tunit Tuning
Tunit provides an efficient and adaptable method of enhancing a vehicles performance (power and torque) without the need to alter the vehicles original equipment or programming. The advantages of the Tunit are; adjustment for optimum efficiency (both manually, by the customer and electronically, via a PC by a distributor), flexibility, as in movement from one vehicle to the next and ease of installation. The principle of Tunit is to provide all these advantages that previous methods of tuning such as EPROM replacement and "flashing" or OBD tuning could not. [Complete Article]
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NEW ITEM ; This is a complete 26 piece interior kit ,simple to fit self adhesive ,peel off and locate over the original! with a carbon effect finish as a change from the usual chrome ,instant change [More Info]
I have a steel angle bolted to the rear cross-rail of my car's rear subframe. This piece of angle is from an old bed-frame, so is stronger than mild steel (especially when I tried to drill it). At one point, I needed a vertical surface to bolt a central exhaust hanger to, so bolted a long piece with the vertical flange up inside the subframe. The angle is long enough to dupicate Cheleker's 2x4 but is secured to the subframe so it is very sturdy and stable.
OK - here is a follow-up report. First, I want to thank everyone for the helpful suggestions and comments. I built a jig as per Norm's instructions, and did considerable trimming to clear the exhaust and valence pan edges. When starting the lift, it took me a few tries to be sure that I had the block positioned properly. As I began jacking, I saw firsthand how unstable this setup was, just as Norm had cautioned. The stack of 2x4's definitely has a tendency to roll, and even though I had chocked the front wheels with 2x4's, they worked loose and there was considerable movement. I was also worried about pinching the exhaust and valence pan, as the clearances were rather tight. (This is one of those things that you understand much better when you see it happen firsthand.)
Although I'm sure that practice would help, I really don't think that this method is as clean and foolproof as the Dooder block is on the front. For me personally, the convenience of lifting both sides of the rear at once is just not worth the risk of a serious accident. I will be going back to jacking one side at a time, using of the main beams.
Thanks Again - I consider myself fortunate to have learned a valuable lesson in safety without actually suffering the consequences!
Careful is the order of the day. After losing a lift off the rear subbie crossmember (Minis fall faster than jacks) I went back to the tried and true lifts off the main webs of the rear subframe.
Mini friends! Mini rides!
Restored/modified Mini 1000 with 1380cc power unit,
2.95:1 FD, adj. suspension, S discs/drums, 10x5 Minilites, 165x70
A008s, custom trim and matching custom trailer.
If you have a proper side exit exhaust, just use a single 2x4 about two feet long and jack under the rear cross member. The rear member is more than strong enough as long as you spread the load out well. It will collapse easily, if you don't.
just nail a stack of 3 2x4s together, and then notch out where the exhaust is. Add a 2x4x4 square to each end for applying your lift right at the rear, outboard corners of the rear subframe (very solid right there, where the rear bushings are fastened).
After a bit of cutting to fit, bob's your uncle. You may have to notch a bit to avoid hanging up on the rear valence panel.
Just keep this in mind: it is NOT real stable in the fore/aft direction, jacking something up with a tall block like this (about 6 1/2" tall, overall), on top of your floor jack lifting point. Be sure to have the front wheels securely blocked before jacking this setup very high off the ground.
Oh, and if your floor jack is too tall to fit this under, try removing the swivel piece from your jack for an extra inch or so.
Jack safely, and use jack stands before getting underneath.
I just got one of the famous (dooderopolis) jack blocks for the front subframe and couldn't be more pleased with it. I was wondering if anybody has worked out a similar scheme for jacking the rear in one lift? The biggest obstruction in my case is my muffler. The rear lip of the subframe (just in front of the rear bumper) would seem like a good location for a similar block, but I am not sure if that part of the frame is strong enough to carry the load. Has anybody done this?
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Posted: May-12-2008 05:28AM
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