| dklawson |
| Total Posts: | 5843 |
| Last Post: | 07-20-08 |
| User Since: | 06-05-00 |
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Posted: May-14-2008 04:27AM
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I suppose you're right. However, the need to convert from an old sender to new comes around so infrequently I doubt someone like our host could be expected to have and sell the adapter for a reasonable price. Finding a late model tank will likely remain more cost effective. However, if a board member had their own lathe and mill there's no reason they couldn't make the adapter themselves. Doug L.
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| PClay |
| Total Posts: | 334 |
| Last Post: | 06-17-08 |
| User Since: | 12-11-03 |
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Posted: May-14-2008 03:19AM
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Doug....... I got an e-mail from Smithj86 as you suggested he do. I sent him the pics of the sender adapter. Maybe we should get our heads together and you do a drawing w/ dimensions of this thing. 
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| dklawson |
| Total Posts: | 5843 |
| Last Post: | 07-20-08 |
| User Since: | 06-05-00 |
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Posted: May-13-2008 08:22AM
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I received and responded to your email before seeing your last post to this thread. Since you've posed closing questions I'll post answers here for anyone following this thread. You can transplant all the later gauge parts to the early car (late sender, late gauge, add voltage stabilizer). However, the remaining problem is that the bayonet mount late sending unit will not fit on the early tanks with a bolt on sending unit. The cheapest fix is to buy a used late model tank (possibly with sending unit) from someone on this board. You can buy a voltage stabilizer from our host, or I believe earlier I posted a link to my PDF on making your own. The late fuel gauge is still available new but you may find an inexpensive (beat up) used speedo on eBay that includes a working fuel gauge. Doug L.
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| smithj86 |
| Total Posts: | 31 |
| Last Post: | 07-10-08 |
| User Since: | 05-29-06 |
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Posted: May-13-2008 04:58AM
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Doug, I'm going to email you directly re: the fuel sender unit b/c this thread is dead. At any rate, is can the old fuel sender unit be replaced by a bayonet-type unit, with corresponding replacement of the old gas gauge, adding a voltage stabilizer?
"There's more to life than books you know, but not much more." The
Smiths, Handsome Devil, 1983.
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| smithj86 |
| Total Posts: | 31 |
| Last Post: | 07-10-08 |
| User Since: | 05-29-06 |
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Posted: May-12-2008 07:48AM
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I tried the tests of the gauge and it looks like it's broken. I'll see if I can find a replacement.
"There's more to life than books you know, but not much more." The
Smiths, Handsome Devil, 1983.
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| dklawson |
| Total Posts: | 5843 |
| Last Post: | 07-20-08 |
| User Since: | 06-05-00 |
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Posted: May-10-2008 02:01PM
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While killing time this afternoon after mothers-day shopping I cruised around eBay looking for alternate fuel gauges in the event that you determine it is your gauge that is at fault. See eBay Motors and search for the following auction numbers: 370050302926 NOS Triumph Herald fuel gauge
310047790349 Used Tr. Herald speedo w/fuel gauge (potentially the best deal)
120259644634 Used Nash Metropolitan fuel gauge (last choice of this group)
330233823976 Used Morris Minor speedo w/fuel gauge (silver) You'll note none of them are for a Mini. You shouldn't have problems making any of them work although you should expect to have to recalibrate the gauge to match your sender. The steps for re-calibrating the early gauges are spelled out on the MGA-Guru web site.
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm
The only one of these gauges I'd hesitate about ordering is the one for the Nash. Voltage shouldn't be an issue for this type of gauge... but for all I know the Nash may have been 6V and the extra current flow at 12V would not be good. Doug L.
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| smithj86 |
| Total Posts: | 31 |
| Last Post: | 07-10-08 |
| User Since: | 05-29-06 |
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Posted: May-10-2008 01:36PM
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Thanks, Doug. I'll try these tests out.
"There's more to life than books you know, but not much more." The
Smiths, Handsome Devil, 1983.
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| dklawson |
| Total Posts: | 5843 |
| Last Post: | 07-20-08 |
| User Since: | 06-05-00 |
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Posted: May-10-2008 07:44AM
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The gauge system changed to include the voltage stabilizer in late 1964. Prior to that the sending unit bolted onto the tank with 6 screws. Start by making sure that's what you have. You can't use a later sender with an early gauge. The early gauge will have two nuts/posts on the back as opposed to the later gauges that have holes with screwdriver slots in them. Make sure you have the early gauge if you have the early sender. The early and late gauges behave differently also. An early gauge will snap up from empty when the ignition key is turned on as opposed to the later style gauges that creep up off empty when power is applied. Testing the early gauges is different. First, the early gauges MUST have a good earth connection. Working on the back of the gauge, remove one of its mounting screws and clean the entrance to the hole with sandpaper. Then refit the screw with a new ground wire underneath the screw head. Connect the other end of the ground wire to a good earthing point. See if that fixes the problem. Next, the terminals on the back of the gauge should be marked with "B" (battery) and "T" (tank). Remove the wire from the "T" terminal and connect a jumper wire there. With the ignition on and the jumper wire disconnected the gauge should show "FULL". Earth the jumper wire and the gauge should show "EMPTY". If it doesn't, make sure the gauge is getting 12V on the "B" terminal and make sure the ground you added is making good contact. If still no joy, the gauge could be out of calibration or dead. Write back with what you find. You may be able to recalibrate the gauge if the sender is good and if the gauge windings are intact. The early sender goes from 0-90 Ohms (empty to full). Start testing it by disconnecting the wires from the sender and connect a volt/ohm meter to the lugs. Use a coat hanger through the filler neck to lift the float to the top, then push the float all the way down while you monitor the resistance value. If you don't see the resistance swing between 0-90 Ohms you may have a break in the sender's resistance windings OR you may have lost the ground connection between the sender and its mounting flange. If the internal windings are OK all of this is repairable. Go through a few of these tests to determine whether it's the sender or gauge that's at fault. You may be able to fix all of this yourself. All of these parts are rare to find new. Several Minors, Hillmans, and a few Standard/Triumphs used the same fuel gauge so eBay may be a source for a gauge if you determine it's dead. The sender is more of a problem. Hopefully it is intact. If not, the easiest fix is to buy a used later tank, sender, fuel gauge, and stabilizer. Doug L.
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| Dr Mini |
| Total Posts: | 3801 |
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| User Since: | 05-23-02 |
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Posted: May-10-2008 05:43AM
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Are you sure it is the guage, and not the sending unit on the tank? If the float has a hole in it, then the guage will always read E. Try pulling the assembly out of the tank and raise and lower it by hand while watching the guage for movement. Also, make sure the key is on. Another thing you can do is to check the wires to see if they are hooked up properly. Also, you can check each wire for continuity to see if it may be broken somewhere in the middle. If all that checks out and you still need a guage, let me know. I have a few of them and might be able to help.
"Retired: No Job, No Money, No Wife! Will
travel anywhere for Minis"
hockey91dad@hotmail.com
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| smithj86 |
| Total Posts: | 31 |
| Last Post: | 07-10-08 |
| User Since: | 05-29-06 |
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Posted: May-10-2008 05:31AM
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My Mk I Cooper's fuel gauge doesn't work; the needle sort of hovers around empty regardless of the level of fuel in the car. MM has the 1964+ gauge, but mine is a 1962. MM will also rebuild a Sprite fuel gauge, but not an old Mk I (as far as I can tell).
Any ideas on how to repair this? Thanks!
"There's more to life than books you know, but not much more." The
Smiths, Handsome Devil, 1983.
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