If you leave the CVs in the hubs and redo the balljoints, it will still roll and steer.  You can leave the axles attached to the balljoints (tie them up if moving the car much), if they're not in the way for the bodywork.  You may have to pull the CVs out if you want to remove the axles from the CVs.

I've not had to undo the balljoints to separate the u-joints.  There is play to allow for up and down suspension movement.  This will allow you to slide the axles 'out' a bit to remove the rubber cross-piece.  That's assuming you have u-joints.

Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel from coast to coast without seeing anything.
Charles Kuralt

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Ya it wont be a true '72 when I complete the engine swap... the engine I bought uses the newer axles so eventually I'll have to pick some of those up and the other parts to allow for the 8.4" disc brake upgrade - got the callipers already.  I picked up some 12" tires and rims to go over them for now, eventually I want to mount some 13x7's on the car - but thats not till next year.

Thanks for the advice so far, I'll most likely throw the car back up on its jackstands tonight and see about getting these things out.   Do not have anywhere to go this evening so looks like the mini gets attention... hope the wife does not get jealous. lol

1972 mini - Under construction - progress pics here

Yokes -v- pot joints. Sorry, I am likely wrong. I guess I'm not used to seeing a True '72.

--Spank 

72 is likely going to have the inboard yoke joints, not the pot joints.

Several ways to approach the job, but a scissors-type ball joint spliter would be a good start. (See part 07-035 on this site.)

It has been a while, but I remember that if the top ball joint is split and the upright assembly swung back then there is enough room for the axle to slip out of the yoke. Clip the retainer on the big end of the small boot connecting the axle to the yoke and slide the axle out. The engine can be pulled leaving the yoke u-joints in place. Alternatively, undo two of the u-bolts on each of the u-joint assemblies to "split" the u-joint and remove the yoke. Then pop that top ball joint and swing the upright assemblies back for clearance.

a 72 most certainly has pot joint inboard cv joints. very easy.

Clip that metal band or zip tie around the rubber boot there. Push the boot back off of the metal cup or "pot". Then undo the ball joints (or just the upper and the steering arm swivel) and pull the wheel brake assembly out enough to pull the greasey inside bearing cage attached to the axle out from inside the cup attached to the transmission.

Get a good ball joint splitter would be my pearl of wisdom.  The right tool for the right job.  You have to undo the suspension near the hub to give you the room you need to get the drive axel out of the way to pull the engine.

Hey guys,

I am looking at removing the engine from my car in prep for the bodyman but I've never done this sort of thing before.  This is my learning experiance   I have all of the top side disconnected and now need to work underneath to remove the drive axles.  I read my Haynes manual, which had typical Haynes quality information but I am still left with a couple questions marks before I venture back under.  The car is a '72 with 998 - I belive it is an older style axle as it does not have boots on either side, just the wheel side.

Anyone care to share some knowlege on this one?  Kinda wish I took mechanics in school rather then wood working and computers... heh.  I assume, if I am able to get the axles out, that I can rebolt up the front so that my wheels and steering still work as I will need to load the shell of the car up onto a trailer to transport the car (have to transport it as the engine does not run).  Taking things apart I am good at... I'll get professional help to reassemble - I know my limits

1972 mini - Under construction - progress pics here