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Trailing Arm Bearing Removal
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Trailing Arm Bearing Removal

    Created by: mini_fly
Orig. Posting Date User Name Edit Date Msg No.
May-05-2008 04:36PM mini_fly   838282
May-05-2008 06:54AM xcc_rider   838161
May-05-2008 02:40AM Charlie_Croker   838124
May-04-2008 05:05PM mini_fly   838095
May-04-2008 04:24PM zip-tph   838081
May-04-2008 02:33PM mini_fly   838054

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Found 6 Messages   Page 1 of 1:   1 
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 Posted: May-05-2008 04:36PM
mini_fly
Total Posts: 867
Last Post: 11-17-08
Member Since: 06-25-02

 
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Thanks Dan and Cosimo,

I think I'll use a 1/2" ready rod to pull the bearing and bushing into place.

I also think I'll install and size the bushing before I install the bearing just to keep it from getting contaminated.

Henry

 Posted: May-05-2008 06:54AM
xcc_rider
Total Posts: 1099
Last Post: 12-02-08
Member Since: 10-06-04

 
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I tried the bearing puller with no luck and had to grind the shell, split it and pull it out that way just like you did.  I also broke a 1/4" rod trying to press in the new bearing and had to go to 3/8" for added strength.  dan

"I don't know much, but what I do know I know little of "

 Posted: May-05-2008 02:40AM
Charlie_Croker
Total Posts: 503
Last Post: 11-25-08
Member Since: 10-26-02

 
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just drift the brass bearing through and out the other side.. the whole piece will come out with the grease tube and the roller bearing... easy peasy!! I have a hundred or more this way..

Cheers,

 Cosimo  

www.madhouseminis.com

 Posted: May-04-2008 05:05PM
mini_fly
Total Posts: 867
Last Post: 11-17-08
Member Since: 06-25-02

 
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Thanks for the tip Zip!

I ended up taking a die grinder to it and carefully split the race.  A few hits with a punch and it pried out very nicely.

It appears that the bearing does sit against a lip.  That is why I could not get much meat on it with the punch.

I found the size the bushing is supposed to be bored to in the old yellow Haynes.  Funny that they don't print that stuff in the newer editions.

Any suggestions around getting it to size?  I have heard using a brake cylinder hone.  I am going to see if I can borrow a reamer from work and use it.  I am just wondering if I may need a couple sizes to get down to 0.8125".  It looks to be about 0.805" when I squeeze it together.  I'm just not sure what the range of a typical reamer is.

Henry

 Posted: May-04-2008 04:24PM
zip-tph
Total Posts: 3937
Last Post: 12-01-08
Member Since: 11-12-99

 
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What worked for me was a "blind bearing puller". Kind of an expandable arbor designed to be used with a slide hammer. I bought a cheap (30 bucks or so) set at Harbor Frieght. Didn't bother with the slide hammer... Just insert the arbor, expand it, and give it a good whack with a drift from the back side.

And if the bushing is giving anyone a hard time (like mine) tapping it to 7/8-14 (UNF) lets you thread in a bolt and whack that out too.

 

 Posted: May-04-2008 02:33PM
mini_fly
Total Posts: 867
Last Post: 11-17-08
Member Since: 06-25-02

 
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I'm in the process of rebuilding a trailing arm and I am having trouble getting the bearing out.

The bushing came out easily as expected but the bearing does not want to budge.

I'm using a long punch and a BFH but all I am succeeding in doing is removing a lot of grease from the arm.

Can anyone tell me if the bearing sits against a lip in the arm?  My punch does not seem to be getting a good bite on the bearing and there is still way too much grease in there to see anything.

Thanks,

Henry

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